Heavyweight tramping

Remember the old days when multi-day hiking/tramping involved carrying a backpack so heavy it felt as though it was going to kill you?

Those days are long gone, of course. Like computers that—decades ago—took up the size of a house and now fit into mobile phones, tramping gear has evolved, become hi-tech, and with it lighter and lighter. These days it’s all about backpacking light and lightweight tramping.

Rob McKay—a lightweight tramping expert

If you’re like me, keen on the idea of ‘losing weight’ and not quite sure where to start, help has arrived:

Rob McKay, a passionate tramper, who I met at Waingaro Forks Hut many years ago, has become an expert on lightweight tramping, and recently started a blog on the topic: www.lightweighttramping.blogspot.com

Despite it being a young blog with only a few posts, it already contains a wealth of info on lightweight tramping. Rob freely shares his experiences, lists gear and specs, and gives tips on how start shedding tramping gear weight.

Whether you are a novice or experienced lightweight tramper, head over to Rob’s blog and—as he puts it—“subscribe, make comments and share your lightweight gear experiences.”

Be warned though, it seems to me that lightweight tramping is a type of bug that could easily catch you unawares!

Following on from my previous article Matiri Valley—gateway to spectacular landscapes, I’m about to tell you about my trip to the Thousand Acre Plateau.

Lake Matiri Hut to plateau rim

After a comfortable and peaceful night at Lake Matiri Hut, I was ready to take on the 800-metre climb to the plateau. About 15 minutes north of the hut is Bay Creek which, apparently, can rise quickly after heavy rain. When I forded it, it was barely knee-deep.

Right across Bay Creek is a track junction with old, wooden signposts from the Forest Service days. “McConchies Hut” points to the right, up Matiri Valley, and “Poor Pete’s Hut” to the left, where I was headed.

Bay Creek

Bay Creek

The climb towards the plateau starts there and then—steep and relentless. The well marked tramping track climbs steadily through beech forest, over zillions of tree roots (“slippery when wet”). After 45 minutes or so, at about 700 metres, I was in for the first reward: A small clearing on the edge of a cliff that makes for a tremendous viewpoint over picturesque Lake Matiri and serpentine Matiri River, 350 metres below.

Lake Matiri

Looking down to Lake Matiri, 350 metres below

Lake Matiri

Lake Matiri

Matiri River

Serpentine Matiri River, north of Lake Matiri

Soon after the viewpoint, at 800 metres, the track levels off considerably and—with a few ups and downs—meanders through bush that’s dominated by grass trees (Dracophyllum). Then the gradient picks up again, and at about 900 metres the final “assault” to the plateau begins. The track zigzags steeply through (and over) limestone blocks, a sure sign of getting within reach of the plateau’s rim.

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The Matiri Valley Road is the southernmost gateway to Kahurangi National Park. It gives access to some of the park’s most spectacular landscapes: The Hundred and Thousand Acre Plateaux.

In this article I am going to tell you about the first leg of a journey I made in December last year.

Lake Matiri

Overlooking Lake Matiri from Lake Matiri Hut

Lake Matiri Map

Matiri Valley Road

The turnoff to Matiri Valley is on State Highway 6, about 6 km northeast of Murchison by the Buller River bridge. The initial 7 km of road are sealed, the remaining 8 km are unsealed. Across the Matiri River bridge follow the Matiri West Bank Road sign. The last kilometre to the Matiri Carpark is on a badly potholed farm road. After rain the potholes fill up to large puddles and their depth is not always apparent. Drive carefully and leave farm gates as you find them (open or shut).

Beyond the Matiri Carpark the farm road continues for another 2 km to the West Branch Matiri River. This stretch is rugged and crosses several streams, and should only be attempted with a four-wheel drive vehicle.

Matiri Carpark to West Branch Matiri River

Since my car is a two-wheel drive, my tramp began at the Matiri Carpark. About a half-an-hour past the carpark I came across a small herd of cattle. Some of the “ladies” were quite friendly and seemed to enjoy having their photo taken—what made me think so? Well, they followed me, obviously keen to check out their photo on my camera…

The farm road was straightforward to follow, albeit quite mucky in places. It had been raining for a few days, and there was a lot of sodden dung all over the road and the potholes filled to the rim.

Nevertheless, the scenery made up for what was underfoot. The views up the valley and of the Matiri River were pleasant to the eye. It was a hot day and I regretted not having carried some extra water. Because of the ever-present dung I was reluctant to drink any water from the streams that run across the road in a few places.

Yet, I wasn’t far away from the waters of the much cleaner West Branch Matiri River, which I reached just under an hour after leaving the carpark.

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A big thankyou to you, my readers and followers of my blog. Thank you for your support, comments, suggestions and feedback over the last year!

I have a new series of articles in planning and will publish them along with new photos here soon.

In the meantime I wish everyone a very Happy New Year and happy tramping, hiking, walking, running, cycling, mountain biking, climbing, mountaineering, skiing, ski touring, abseiling, canyoning, kayaking, boating, swimming, sunbathing, botanising, birdwatching, hunting, fishing, river crossing, camping, tenting, hammocking, hut bagging, relaxing, photo shooting, and whatever else you may or like to get up to in the wilderness…

Buttercup

Buttercup–Ranunculus (Hundred Acre Plateau)

The other week when I ventured to Lodestone, I arrived at Flora to find that half of the carpark was cordoned off. A crime scene? Highly unlikely. There, on a trailer behind a DOC ute, sat a wee backcountry hut. A couple of guys wearing hi-vis vests were looking skyward, patiently waiting for something to happen. What was it, I wondered.

Flora Carpark

Flora Carpark taped off.

While I put on my boots and readied myself for my tramp to Lodestone, I heard the crackling noises of radio calls going back and forth. Seeing the ropes draped over the hut, I quickly realised that I was about to witness an aerial hut relocation.

Sure enough, after further radio calls, one of the guys wearing a hard hat asked me to stay behind the line, as a chopper was coming in shortly. Suddenly the peace and quiet was swallowed up by the deep, beating noise of helicopter rotor blades.

Helicopter on the approach to Flora Carpark

Here she comes, straight in over Flora Saddle.

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Lodestone is a mountain on Kahurangi National Park’s Arthur Range. At 1462 metres it offers breathtaking views, and from the Nelson region it can be reached and climbed in a single day.

The prospect of climbing and descending more than 1400 metres in one day may sound daunting. However, the good news is that over 60% of it (930 metres) can be done by car. From the Motueka River West Bank Road an unsealed road leads up Graham Valley where it branches off into Graham Valley South Branch Road. This road is narrow and very steep, climbing over 700 metres within four kilometres. As a sign at the bottom of the valley rightly points out: “Drive with extreme caution”. At the end of the road is Flora Carpark, simply referred to as “Flora” by locals.

Shelter at Flora Carpark

Shelter at Flora Carpark.

Lodestone map

Lodestone reference/overview.

Flora is the gateway to a number of fantastic tramps in Kahurangi National Park, one of which is the climb to Lodestone. It can be done as a there-and-back via the south ridge (2 to 3 hours return) or as a loop by returning via the southwest ridge, Flora Hut and Flora Saddle (3 to 4 hours). A good level of fitness, adequate gear (wet weather, wind) and footwear (tramping boots) are essential. Carry water as well, as there are no streams or tarns along the way.

Lodestone southeast face

Lodestone southeast face, viewed from Graham Valley.

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About an hour or so from Mt Starveall, 300 metres below the summit, is Starveall Hut. It sits on a small saddle overlooking Tasman Bay to the north, and Lee Valley to the south. As far as the name is concerned, I can’t help but wonder what Starveall means. An ad hoc explanation carved into the hut’s map frame isn’t that convincing.

Starveall Hut

Starveall Hut interior

Starveall Hut and its interior.

Right on the bushline, Starveall Hut is in a perfect location, providing shelter in bad weather, and serving as a base to climb the mountain.

The closest road access is at the Hacket on Aniseed Valley Road, 29 km from Nelson. From the Hacket it’s a six-hour tramp to Starveall Hut, a climb of almost 1100 metres.

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