January 2009

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Years ago, not long after immigrating to New Zealand, I was walking along a track in the hills behind Nelson when a person said in passing, “Watch out for orchids—they’re lovely!”

Orchids? In New Zealand? Sure enough, further along the track, after paying constant attention to anything that looked like a flower, I spotted the tiniest of orchids I had ever seen. Later I found out it was a Slender Forest Orchid—Adenochilus gracilis. Ever since, I’ve been fascinated by the fact that there are over 140 species of native orchids in New Zealand.

White Fingers—Stegostyla lyallii

Stegostyla lyallii with its artistic markings on the dorsal-sepal (top petal).

One of the locally common orchids, the Stegostyla lyallii (formerly classed as Caladenia) also goes by the name of White Fingers. The portrayed one below, I photographed last December on Gordons Pyramid between the Tableland and Arthur Range in Kahurangi National Park. To discover and appreciate the orchid’s beauty, you do need to get on your hands and knees and take a close look. While the flower measures a mere 20 mm across, it is amazingly beautiful and gracefully elegant.

White Fingers—Stegostyla lyallii

Deep in Kahurangi National Park, there is a somewhat cosmic place. Creeks with the names of Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Meteor, Comet, Star, Lunik, Apollo, Sputnik and Satellite are all tributaries of the Karamea River. The theme is set for Moonstone Lake.

The lake came into being as a result of the 1929 Murchison Earthquake. This 7.7 magnitude quake dramatically reshaped the landscape in many areas of North West Nelson, now known as Kahurangi National Park. At Apollo and Lunik Creeks, huge rock falls dammed the Karamea River, forming a long and shallow lake. The trees on the valley floor consequently drowned and their remains still stick out of the water, creating a rather eerie atmosphere.

Moonstone Lake lies between Thor Hut and Trevor Carter Hut on the Leslie–Karamea Track, and makes for a nice lunch stop. Although the lake is very close to the track, it can easily be missed as the bush swiftly reclaimed the 80-year-old rock falls. Watch out for Moonstone Lake after crossing Apollo Creek—when you go into Orbit you’ve missed it!

Moonstone Lake

If there is such a thing as a “hub” when it comes to tramping, Trevor Carter Hut in Kahurangi National Park would undoubtedly qualify. Tracks and routes from four directions lead to Trevor Carter Hut in the earthquake-torn Upper Karamea Valley. Furthermore, some of those tracks offer several options, depending on whether the Karamea River can be crossed safely. When the river level is high, the Trevor Carter Suspension Bridge helps provide access to and from Trevor Carter Hut.

Location

Trampers who rely on older maps may wonder how Trevor Carter Hut ended up on the other side (the true right) of the Karamea River. Up to 2003, there were two huts: Trevor Carter Hut on the true left of the river, and Luna Hut on the true right. Both huts were removed and a new hut was built in the spot where Luna Hut was. Rather than naming the new hut “Luna”, it was named “Trevor Carter”. Presumably this was done in honour of Trevor Carter.

Who was Trevor Carter?

Plaque in Memory of Trevor CarterA plaque mounted above the inside of the Trevor Carter Hut entrance reads: This ‘plaque’ was installed by fellow members of Nelson Branch N.Z.D.A. in memory of Trevor Carter 1954–1972 a fine young sportsman and companion. The plaque was, of course, initially installed in the original Trevor Carter Hut.

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The South Island Robin or Toutouwai (Petroica australis australis) is a protected, endemic bird and frequent forest-dweller in New Zealand’s South Island. Robins are confiding and often approach trampers to feed in areas of litter disturbed by boots. From bill to tail, Robins measure about 18 cm. Their diet consists of insects as well as spiders, including grubs and large prey like stick insects, wētā and earthworms.

I love their song—Robins are known to sometimes sing without pause for up to an hour! South Island Robin song (MP3 123 kB) (sourced from What Bird? © PA Handford & Associates and McPherson Natural History Unit 2004).

The Robin in this photo lives at Moonstone Lake in Kahurangi National Park:

South Island Robin - Toutouwai - Petroica australis australis