Tramping/hiking trips

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Following on from my previous article Matiri Valley—gateway to spectacular landscapes, I’m about to tell you about my trip to the Thousand Acre Plateau.

Lake Matiri Hut to plateau rim

After a comfortable and peaceful night at Lake Matiri Hut, I was ready to take on the 800-metre climb to the plateau. About 15 minutes north of the hut is Bay Creek which, apparently, can rise quickly after heavy rain. When I forded it, it was barely knee-deep.

Right across Bay Creek is a track junction with old, wooden signposts from the Forest Service days. “McConchies Hut” points to the right, up Matiri Valley, and “Poor Pete’s Hut” to the left, where I was headed.

Bay Creek

Bay Creek

The climb towards the plateau starts there and then—steep and relentless. The well marked tramping track climbs steadily through beech forest, over zillions of tree roots (“slippery when wet”). After 45 minutes or so, at about 700 metres, I was in for the first reward: A small clearing on the edge of a cliff that makes for a tremendous viewpoint over picturesque Lake Matiri and serpentine Matiri River, 350 metres below.

Lake Matiri

Looking down to Lake Matiri, 350 metres below

Lake Matiri

Lake Matiri

Matiri River

Serpentine Matiri River, north of Lake Matiri

Soon after the viewpoint, at 800 metres, the track levels off considerably and—with a few ups and downs—meanders through bush that’s dominated by grass trees (Dracophyllum). Then the gradient picks up again, and at about 900 metres the final “assault” to the plateau begins. The track zigzags steeply through (and over) limestone blocks, a sure sign of getting within reach of the plateau’s rim.

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The Matiri Valley Road is the southernmost gateway to Kahurangi National Park. It gives access to some of the park’s most spectacular landscapes: The Hundred and Thousand Acre Plateaux.

In this article I am going to tell you about the first leg of a journey I made in December last year.

Lake Matiri

Overlooking Lake Matiri from Lake Matiri Hut

Lake Matiri Map

Matiri Valley Road

The turnoff to Matiri Valley is on State Highway 6, about 6 km northeast of Murchison by the Buller River bridge. The initial 7 km of road are sealed, the remaining 8 km are unsealed. Across the Matiri River bridge follow the Matiri West Bank Road sign. The last kilometre to the Matiri Carpark is on a badly potholed farm road. After rain the potholes fill up to large puddles and their depth is not always apparent. Drive carefully and leave farm gates as you find them (open or shut).

Beyond the Matiri Carpark the farm road continues for another 2 km to the West Branch Matiri River. This stretch is rugged and crosses several streams, and should only be attempted with a four-wheel drive vehicle.

Matiri Carpark to West Branch Matiri River

Since my car is a two-wheel drive, my tramp began at the Matiri Carpark. About a half-an-hour past the carpark I came across a small herd of cattle. Some of the “ladies” were quite friendly and seemed to enjoy having their photo taken—what made me think so? Well, they followed me, obviously keen to check out their photo on my camera…

The farm road was straightforward to follow, albeit quite mucky in places. It had been raining for a few days, and there was a lot of sodden dung all over the road and the potholes filled to the rim.

Nevertheless, the scenery made up for what was underfoot. The views up the valley and of the Matiri River were pleasant to the eye. It was a hot day and I regretted not having carried some extra water. Because of the ever-present dung I was reluctant to drink any water from the streams that run across the road in a few places.

Yet, I wasn’t far away from the waters of the much cleaner West Branch Matiri River, which I reached just under an hour after leaving the carpark.

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Lodestone is a mountain on Kahurangi National Park’s Arthur Range. At 1462 metres it offers breathtaking views, and from the Nelson region it can be reached and climbed in a single day.

The prospect of climbing and descending more than 1400 metres in one day may sound daunting. However, the good news is that over 60% of it (930 metres) can be done by car. From the Motueka River West Bank Road an unsealed road leads up Graham Valley where it branches off into Graham Valley South Branch Road. This road is narrow and very steep, climbing over 700 metres within four kilometres. As a sign at the bottom of the valley rightly points out: “Drive with extreme caution”. At the end of the road is Flora Carpark, simply referred to as “Flora” by locals.

Shelter at Flora Carpark

Shelter at Flora Carpark.

Lodestone map

Lodestone reference/overview.

Flora is the gateway to a number of fantastic tramps in Kahurangi National Park, one of which is the climb to Lodestone. It can be done as a there-and-back via the south ridge (2 to 3 hours return) or as a loop by returning via the southwest ridge, Flora Hut and Flora Saddle (3 to 4 hours). A good level of fitness, adequate gear (wet weather, wind) and footwear (tramping boots) are essential. Carry water as well, as there are no streams or tarns along the way.

Lodestone southeast face

Lodestone southeast face, viewed from Graham Valley.

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Following on from my article Mt Richmond—mountain and forest park, here’s an account of my experience on the infamous “fixed-wire” traverse.

The fixed-wire traverse is a route that gives access to the Richmond Range and Mt Richmond from Pelorus Valley. Some years ago, when I started exploring Mt Richmond Forest Park, I heard and read about the “wire”, a steel cable that assists in negotiating a steep rock face. I was told all sorts of stories about the level of difficulty, from “piece of cake” to “sheer horror”. The only way to find out was to get up there and have a look for myself.

Mt Fell, Mt Richmond

View from point 1496 aka North Peak to Mt Fell (centre, 1599 m) and Mt Richmond (right, 1756 m).

First attempt—mission failed

On my first attempt I never made it to the wire. I set out from Rocks Hut at dawn, and descended to Middy Hut by the Pelorus River, which took a couple of hours or so. Behind Middy Hut I bashed through some thick bush in a southeasterly direction until the bush opened up to mature beech forest. There was no obvious track but the odd, old marker confirmed I was headed the right way. After the initial climb of 750 metres the track levelled off a little, before becoming undulating. The weather was near perfect, a bit too warm perhaps and there was a strong, gusty southwester blowing which would have been more of an issue above the bushline.

Anyway, I thought I had reached Conical Knob when, in fact, I had only made it to point 1034. When I did get to Conical Knob I stopped for a break to assess the situation. I realised that

  • I had underestimated the route
  • I was half way, if that
  • I didn’t carry enough water to get through the day comfortably.

To complicate things, I didn’t know what time it was! At some point during the ascent, my otherwise reliable, accurately ticking Swiss watch stopped working—flat battery! This was well before cellphones became small and light enough to carry. These days when I’m out tramping I have at least three clocks on me: My watch, cellphone and even my pocket knife has a mini computer in it.

Back to my reckoning on Conical Knob: I knew it was well after midday, and I was unsure of what challenges laid ahead, like the infamous “wire”. In the end I reluctantly decided it was time for plan B: Backtrack to Middy Hut.

Second attempt—mission accomplished

In December 2006 it was time for another attempt. This time I came in from the west, spent a night at Browning Hut, then over Totara Saddle to Roebuck Hut. From old maps and brochures I established that there used to be a marked track from Roebuck Hut to Conical Knob. Like many other tracks, its maintenance ceased in 1994. My guess was that the vegetation would be similar to the Middy Hut–Conical Knob area—mature, open beech forest—so I gave it a shot.

Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob

To my surprise someone had actually cleared the bush between Roebuck Hut and the smallish clearing above the hut, giving easy access to the old track. The initial climb was straightforward. Frequent, old track markers made navigating a breeze. In fact, the old markers led all the way up to Conical Knob. Beyond point 702 the track was rather pleasant, with lots of ferns and trees other than beech.

Bush along Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob Route

Bush along Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob Route.

The final assault of Conical Knob was a very steep affair. Above 1000 metres altitude the gradient increased considerably up a spur with lots of rocky outcrops. Once there, it was a nice feeling to be back on Conical Knob; new (personally) untracked country was lying ahead.

Roebuck Hut marker on Conical Knob

Roebuck Hut marker on Conical Knob.

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Mt Richmond is a prominent peak on the Richmond Range in Mt Richmond Forest Park (that should be plenty of “Richmonds” in one sentence). At 1756 m, Mt Richmond is 35 m short of Red Hill, the park’s highest mountain. Nevertheless, there are commanding views from the summit, a great reward for anyone who’s endured the strenuous ascent.

Mt Richmond

Johnson Peak (left), Mt Richmond (right).

Mt Richmond

Mt Richmond, north face, 1756 m.

There are three tracks/routes that lead to Mt Richmond, all requiring a good level of fitness.

Top Valley

The most direct route starts in Top Valley, off Wairau Valley’s Northbank Road. Unless the forestry roads are closed for logging, you can drive to the beginning of the track at 520 m. The tramping track climbs steadily for about four hours along a ridge through beech forest to Richmond Saddle (1200 m) where Mt Richmond Hut is located.

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As announced earlier, here is an account of my latest tramping trip to the Mt Owen massif:

Map with Mt Owen massif trip overview

Overview of my four-day trip to the Mt Owen massif

Day 1: Courthouse Flat–Granity Pass

The starting point of my trip was Courthouse Flat at the end of the Wangapeka River Road. There are two options to gain the first 500 metres in altitude: Via the Ridge Track or the Blue Creek Track. The latter was my choice, meandering along an easy walking track next to Blue Creek for the first half hour or so. A few hundred metres before the Blue Creek Resurgence, the track branches off and becomes a tramping track. It follows Blue Creek for a bit before relentlessly and steadily climbing out of the valley. After some heavy rain the day before, a few showers kept on sweeping through from the west, making the track slippery and muddy in parts.

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Incidentally, one of the meanings of kahurangi in Māori is jewel. Diamond Lake is one of seven lakes in an area known as either Diamond Lakes or Sylvester Lakes. While camping there for a few days, I fell in love with the lake, a true gem in Kahurangi National Park!

Sunrise at Diamond Lake

Sunrise at Diamond Lake

Even though there is no track that leads to Diamond Lake, it isn’t too difficult to get to. In fact, it may be a good introduction to wilderness travel for those who have never ventured off the beaten track. From the western side of the Cobb Reservoir dam (at 820 m), it’s a two to three-hour walk along an old, disused vehicle track to Sylvester Hut (at 1310 m). Beyond the hut there are no tracks and wilderness travel in open country begins.

There are two main routes from Sylvester Hut to Diamond Lake:

Routes to Diamond Lake

Iron Stream Route

From Sylvester Hut, follow the ridge southeast of Lake Sylvester until you pick up a cairned route that leads to a steep, grassy slope down to Iron Stream. Across the stream head for a clump of beech trees and an obvious rocky outcrop. Pick up an old and still marked track, and follow it up through the beech forest to the open ridge east of Lake Lillie. Sidle past Lake Lillie to the bush edge south of Diamond Lake. From here, descend through the beech forest in a northerly direction, straight down to Diamond Lake.

Iron Hill Route

From Sylvester Hut, follow the spur between Lake Sylvester and Little Lake Sylvester, and head for the outlet of Iron Lake. From there, a cairned route climbs steeply through a maze of rocky outcrops and bluffs, all the way to the summit of Iron Hill. At 1695 metres it is the highest point on the Lockett Range, offering a breathtaking 360-degree panorama. From Iron Hill follow the Lockett Range to point 1631 and down the ridge northwest of Lake Lillie. When you reach the bushline, descend through the beech forest in a northerly direction, straight down to Diamond Lake.

Lake Sylvester, Little Lake Sylvester and Iron Lake

Clockwise from top left: Lake Sylvester, Little Lake Sylvester and Iron Lake

View from Iron Hill to Cobb Valley and Peel Range

View from Iron Hill to Cobb Valley and Peel Range

A word of caution

As with all mountainous and exposed areas in Kahurangi National Park, the weather can change very quickly. The first time I camped at Diamond Lake, I encountered a freak storm and cold snap that brought several inches of snow in the middle of summer. Be prepared! It can be lovely and warm one day, and unfavourable and freezing on the next. Visibility can change quickly too. If you need to travel in adverse weather opt for the Iron Stream Route.

Fog over Diamond Lake

Fog over Diamond Lake

How long does it take to get from Sylvester Hut to Diamond Lake?

Slowpoke Rodriguez and Speedy Gonzáles

That depends on many factors, such as level of fitness, how often you stop for breaks, the weather, and also whether you are a Speedy Gonzáles or Slowpoke Rodriguez type tramper. Anyhow, for either route, allow at least four hours each way.

Are there any campsites at Diamond Lake?

Yes, there are good campsites at both ends of the lake.

Diamond Lake is a good base to explore the other lakes, like Ruby Lake or Lake Lockett, and makes for a straight-forward climb to Mt Lockett.

Diamond Lake

Diamond Lake

How to get there

At Upper Takaka (at the base of Takaka Hill on the Golden Bay side), a narrow 28-kilometre road leads to Cobb Reservoir. For more information download DOC’s Cobb Valley, Mt Arthur, Tableland publication.

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