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Lodestone is a mountain on Kahurangi National Park’s Arthur Range. At 1462 metres it offers breathtaking views, and from the Nelson region it can be reached and climbed in a single day.

The prospect of climbing and descending more than 1400 metres in one day may sound daunting. However, the good news is that over 60% of it (930 metres) can be done by car. From the Motueka River West Bank Road an unsealed road leads up Graham Valley where it branches off into Graham Valley South Branch Road. This road is narrow and very steep, climbing over 700 metres within four kilometres. As a sign at the bottom of the valley rightly points out: “Drive with extreme caution”. At the end of the road is Flora Carpark, simply referred to as “Flora” by locals.

Shelter at Flora Carpark

Shelter at Flora Carpark.

Lodestone map

Lodestone reference/overview.

Flora is the gateway to a number of fantastic tramps in Kahurangi National Park, one of which is the climb to Lodestone. It can be done as a there-and-back via the south ridge (2 to 3 hours return) or as a loop by returning via the southwest ridge, Flora Hut and Flora Saddle (3 to 4 hours). A good level of fitness, adequate gear (wet weather, wind) and footwear (tramping boots) are essential. Carry water as well, as there are no streams or tarns along the way.

Lodestone southeast face

Lodestone southeast face, viewed from Graham Valley.

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At 1528 metres, 21 kilometres south of Nelson, Mt Starveall is a superb viewpoint. The Marlborough Sounds, Richmond Range, Inland Kaikouras, Red Hills Ridge, Nelson’s Western Ranges as well as Tasman Bay are all on Mt Starveall’s viewing menu.

Mt Starveall

A cloud drifts across the Lowther Saddle between the Hacket Peaks and Mt Starveall (right, 1528 m). Dominating in the distance are Little Rintoul (left, 1643 m) and Mt Rintoul (1731 m).

Hacket Peaks

Looking back to the Hacket Peaks (1438 m and 1437 m) and Mt Gale (1425 m).

On Mt Starveall

Clouds hover above Mt Starveall summit (1528 m).

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Mt Richmond Forest Park has a very interesting geology. The Alpine Fault—New Zealand’s largest active fault—runs along the park’s southern boundary. Other major faults that branch off the Alpine Fault include the Waimea and Pelorus faults. As a result, a rich variety of rock types can be found in the park. One of them is slate.

Ada Flat with point 1538

Ada Flat with point 1538.

Tramper on Ada Flat - point 1538 (right)

Tramper on Ada Flat—point 1538 (right).

The open tops of Ada Flat provide straightforward travel from Old Man to Slaty Peak, a section of Mt Richmond’s Alpine Route. Along these tops are some impressive displays of slate, with beautiful arrays of colours and patterns.

Slate on Ada Flat

Slate on Ada Flat.

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When you talk to Kiwis (New Zealanders) about “tramping” or “being a tramper”, they know exactly what you mean. When you talk to visitors or people abroad, quite often you have to explain what you’re talking about.

Definitions

Online references such as Wiktionary define a tramper as recreational hiker, one who hikes, and a hike as being a long walk.

WordNet comes up with a foot traveler; someone who goes on an extended walk (for pleasure).

While the above is pretty close, it’s not exactly what comes to mind when I think of “tramping” or a “tramper” in New Zealand terms.

Tramper in Cobb Valley at Chaffey Stream

Tramper in Cobb Valley at Chaffey Stream.

So, what exactly is a tramper?

Ask a dozen Kiwis what a tramper is and you’re bound to hear twelve different explanations. The fact is, it cannot be put in one word, perhaps not even in one sentence.

One of the best definitions I have ever come across is the following:

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Following on from my article Mt Richmond—mountain and forest park, here’s an account of my experience on the infamous “fixed-wire” traverse.

The fixed-wire traverse is a route that gives access to the Richmond Range and Mt Richmond from Pelorus Valley. Some years ago, when I started exploring Mt Richmond Forest Park, I heard and read about the “wire”, a steel cable that assists in negotiating a steep rock face. I was told all sorts of stories about the level of difficulty, from “piece of cake” to “sheer horror”. The only way to find out was to get up there and have a look for myself.

Mt Fell, Mt Richmond

View from point 1496 aka North Peak to Mt Fell (centre, 1599 m) and Mt Richmond (right, 1756 m).

First attempt—mission failed

On my first attempt I never made it to the wire. I set out from Rocks Hut at dawn, and descended to Middy Hut by the Pelorus River, which took a couple of hours or so. Behind Middy Hut I bashed through some thick bush in a southeasterly direction until the bush opened up to mature beech forest. There was no obvious track but the odd, old marker confirmed I was headed the right way. After the initial climb of 750 metres the track levelled off a little, before becoming undulating. The weather was near perfect, a bit too warm perhaps and there was a strong, gusty southwester blowing which would have been more of an issue above the bushline.

Anyway, I thought I had reached Conical Knob when, in fact, I had only made it to point 1034. When I did get to Conical Knob I stopped for a break to assess the situation. I realised that

  • I had underestimated the route
  • I was half way, if that
  • I didn’t carry enough water to get through the day comfortably.

To complicate things, I didn’t know what time it was! At some point during the ascent, my otherwise reliable, accurately ticking Swiss watch stopped working—flat battery! This was well before cellphones became small and light enough to carry. These days when I’m out tramping I have at least three clocks on me: My watch, cellphone and even my pocket knife has a mini computer in it.

Back to my reckoning on Conical Knob: I knew it was well after midday, and I was unsure of what challenges laid ahead, like the infamous “wire”. In the end I reluctantly decided it was time for plan B: Backtrack to Middy Hut.

Second attempt—mission accomplished

In December 2006 it was time for another attempt. This time I came in from the west, spent a night at Browning Hut, then over Totara Saddle to Roebuck Hut. From old maps and brochures I established that there used to be a marked track from Roebuck Hut to Conical Knob. Like many other tracks, its maintenance ceased in 1994. My guess was that the vegetation would be similar to the Middy Hut–Conical Knob area—mature, open beech forest—so I gave it a shot.

Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob

To my surprise someone had actually cleared the bush between Roebuck Hut and the smallish clearing above the hut, giving easy access to the old track. The initial climb was straightforward. Frequent, old track markers made navigating a breeze. In fact, the old markers led all the way up to Conical Knob. Beyond point 702 the track was rather pleasant, with lots of ferns and trees other than beech.

Bush along Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob Route

Bush along Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob Route.

The final assault of Conical Knob was a very steep affair. Above 1000 metres altitude the gradient increased considerably up a spur with lots of rocky outcrops. Once there, it was a nice feeling to be back on Conical Knob; new (personally) untracked country was lying ahead.

Roebuck Hut marker on Conical Knob

Roebuck Hut marker on Conical Knob.

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Once upon a time there was an old man who made his home in the mountains between Tasman Bay and the Wairau Valley…

This could be the opening paragraph of a story revolving around Old Man, a mountain and backcountry hut in Mt Richmond Forest Park.

Old Man is a significant location along the Richmond Range. Routes from three directions meet on the summit of Old Man:

  • Slaty–Ada Flat (northeast)
  • Lake Chalice/Top Valley (south)
  • Mt Rintoul/Goulter Valley–Old Man Hut (west)

Old Man summit

Old Man summit (1514 m).

At 1514 metres, Old Man is one of many peaks along Richmond Range and invites for a rest to take in the views. There’s even a water point up there (see Water points—thirst quenchers on mountain tops).

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It’s a very pretty but deadly plant. Alpine sundew is a carnivorous plant that grows in sub-alpine and alpine areas of New Zealand. To supplement its diet it catches small insects, dissolves them and absorbs the “meaty” nutrients.

Not unlike an insect, I became attracted to sundew by the “dew drops” that were glistening in the sunlight. On my first encounter with this unusual plant, I dropped everything and laid down flat on my tummy to have a close look. Since the plant is quite small—the leaves are often no longer than 50 mm—it’s the only way to examine a sundew’s intricate details and fascinating features.

The fleshy leaves are covered in hair-like tentacles that secrete drops of sweet mucilage (before you ask, no, I didn’t taste it) which lures unsuspecting insects.

I have yet to observe the actual trapping of an insect. Although from what I’ve read, once an insect lands on the plant, it becomes trapped by the sticky dew drops and dies within 15 minutes, either as a result of exhaustion or, when it becomes completely wrapped by the sticky substance, by asphyxiation. The plant then secretes enzymes that dissolve the insect and free up its nutrients, ready for absorption by the plant’s leaves. What a crafty way for a plant to receive vital nutrients that are missing from the habitat’s poor soil!

Alpine sundew - Drosera arcturi

Alpine sundew–Drosera arcturi.

Alpine sundew - Drosera arcturi

Sunlight makes the leaves glow red.

Alpine sundew - Drosera arcturi

Without direct sunlight the leaves appear brown.

Alpine sundew - Drosera arcturi

An individual leave…

Alpine sundew - Drosera arcturi

…with glistening “dew drops”.

The scientific name of Alpine sundew is Drosera arcturi. The latter part of the name means “of Arthur”, derived from Mount Arthur, a locality in Tasmania, where Drosera arcturi also grow natively.

To come back to the question “how do you like your meat”, my guess is that Madam or Sir Drosera likes it “quite well done” to “well dissolved”.

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