Lodestone—drive, climb, view—all in a day’s work

Lodestone is a mountain on Kahurangi National Park’s Arthur Range. At 1462 metres it offers breathtaking views, and from the Nelson region it can be reached and climbed in a single day.

The prospect of climbing and descending more than 1400 metres in one day may sound daunting. However, the good news is that over 60% of it (930 metres) can be done by car. From the Motueka River West Bank Road an unsealed road leads up Graham Valley where it branches off into Graham Valley South Branch Road. This road is narrow and very steep, climbing over 700 metres within four kilometres. As a sign at the bottom of the valley rightly points out: “Drive with extreme caution”. At the end of the road is Flora Carpark, simply referred to as “Flora” by locals.

Shelter at Flora Carpark.

Lodestone reference/overview.

Flora is the gateway to a number of fantastic tramps in Kahurangi National Park, one of which is the climb to Lodestone. It can be done as a there-and-back via the south ridge (2 to 3 hours return) or as a loop by returning via the southwest ridge, Flora Hut and Flora Saddle (3 to 4 hours). A good level of fitness, adequate gear (wet weather, wind) and footwear (tramping boots) are essential. Carry water as well, as there are no streams or tarns along the way.

Lodestone southeast face, viewed from Graham Valley.

Driving up the winding Graham Valley Road, Lodestone drops in and out of view and looks rather innocuous. The reality, however, is quite different. Right from the start at Flora Carpark, the track climbs steeply to a small ridge 150 metres above the carpark. After traversing an attractive patch of dracophyllum (grass trees), the track levels off for a bit, and Mt Arthur comes into view to the south.

Mt Arthur northeast face.

Lodestone south face.

The gradient increases ahead of the final “assault”.

Following a brief dip across a saddle, the track sidles point 1262, gains the south ridge and meanders along to the foot of Lodestone’s south slope, where the final “assault” begins. Once again the gradient increases rapidly. Along the way are several viewpoints. At a rocky outcrop the views range 180 degrees, from Arthur Range in the south, to the Waimea Basin, the Nelson Lakes, Richmond Ranges, Nelson and Tasman Bay to the north.

Graham Valley South Branch with the road to Flora Carpark partly visible; Sugar Loaf in the centre.

Waimea Basin and Tasman Bay.

Lodestone’s very own icicle cove.

“Look at me, look at me!”

“What are you doing on my mountain?”, wonders the South Island robin.

At the bushline the gradient eases off quickly and the summit is finally within reach. At the top, next to a radio repeater antenna, a spectacular 360-degree panorama unfolds. In addition to the 180-degree vista mentioned above, there are views of the Arthur Range to the north (Mt McMahon, Mt Crusader, Hoary Head, Hailes Knob), Abel Tasman National Park, Golden Bay and Farewell Spit; towards the west are Devil Range, Snowdon Range, Lockett Range, Cobb Valley, Peel Range and Tableland. Whether you are familiar with the area or not, carrying the extra weight of binoculars (and a map for reference) is well worth the effort. On a good day you can see deep into Kahurangi National Park and spot many a peak!

Arthur Range to the north with Hoary Head, Mt Crusader and Mt McMahon.

The bush-clad valleys of Grecian Stream, north of Lodestone.

Mt Hodder.

Peel Range (left), Cobb Valley and Peat Flat (centre), Iron Hill (right).

Western view to Gordons Pyramid (left), Tableland (top centre) and Flora Valley.

Southern view to Mt Arthur, Gordons Pyramid (right) and Quartz Creek (centre).

Descending the southwest ridge is a little bit more challenging than the south ridge, in particular the initial part below the summit. Iron poles lead the way down through rocky outcrops and tussock to the bushline, where a marked track follows the ridge all the way down to Flora Hut. Again, there are some steep sections with level bits in between.

Once in the bush, there are very few viewpoints. Instead, keep an eye on the bush, watch out for the giant beech tree half way down, and listen to the birds. On one of my Lodestone trips (yes, I’ve done it more than once), while having a rest, I noticed some movement in the tree right above where I was sitting. It was a morepork or ruru. Unfortunately it was camera shy.

Insect feeding on the nectar of a native flower.

Track on Lodestone’s southwest ridge.

Flora Stream waterfall at Flora Hut.

When you hear the sound of water you know you’re getting close to Flora Stream and Flora Hut. Right above the ford are some attractive little waterfalls.

Flora Hut.

Flora Hut is quite special, as it dates back to 1928. It consists of two six-bunk huts (or rooms) joined by a woodshed. Because of strong community support, the hut has been retained (see DOC’s media release Flora Hut to stay says DOC).

From Flora Hut it’s an easy 30-minute stroll back to Flora Carpark via Flora Saddle.

Lodestone is definitely well worth a visit. Make sure it’s a fine day to catch the panoramic views, and be prepared for adverse weather at any time of the year. On my last visit the picture-perfect, clear blue skies were swallowed up by whiteout within less than a half an hour.

Possibly related articles:

• Thousand Acre Plateau—and still counting…
• Nelson’s western vista—what are we looking at?
• Mt Owen massif—wilderness at its best
• Diamond Lake—a jewel in Kahurangi National Park
• Balloon Hut—let’s take off to the Tableland!