Backcountry huts

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Following on from my previous article Matiri Valley—gateway to spectacular landscapes, I’m about to tell you about my trip to the Thousand Acre Plateau.

Lake Matiri Hut to plateau rim

After a comfortable and peaceful night at Lake Matiri Hut, I was ready to take on the 800-metre climb to the plateau. About 15 minutes north of the hut is Bay Creek which, apparently, can rise quickly after heavy rain. When I forded it, it was barely knee-deep.

Right across Bay Creek is a track junction with old, wooden signposts from the Forest Service days. “McConchies Hut” points to the right, up Matiri Valley, and “Poor Pete’s Hut” to the left, where I was headed.

Bay Creek

Bay Creek

The climb towards the plateau starts there and then—steep and relentless. The well marked tramping track climbs steadily through beech forest, over zillions of tree roots (“slippery when wet”). After 45 minutes or so, at about 700 metres, I was in for the first reward: A small clearing on the edge of a cliff that makes for a tremendous viewpoint over picturesque Lake Matiri and serpentine Matiri River, 350 metres below.

Lake Matiri

Looking down to Lake Matiri, 350 metres below

Lake Matiri

Lake Matiri

Matiri River

Serpentine Matiri River, north of Lake Matiri

Soon after the viewpoint, at 800 metres, the track levels off considerably and—with a few ups and downs—meanders through bush that’s dominated by grass trees (Dracophyllum). Then the gradient picks up again, and at about 900 metres the final “assault” to the plateau begins. The track zigzags steeply through (and over) limestone blocks, a sure sign of getting within reach of the plateau’s rim.

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The Matiri Valley Road is the southernmost gateway to Kahurangi National Park. It gives access to some of the park’s most spectacular landscapes: The Hundred and Thousand Acre Plateaux.

In this article I am going to tell you about the first leg of a journey I made in December last year.

Lake Matiri

Overlooking Lake Matiri from Lake Matiri Hut

Lake Matiri Map

Matiri Valley Road

The turnoff to Matiri Valley is on State Highway 6, about 6 km northeast of Murchison by the Buller River bridge. The initial 7 km of road are sealed, the remaining 8 km are unsealed. Across the Matiri River bridge follow the Matiri West Bank Road sign. The last kilometre to the Matiri Carpark is on a badly potholed farm road. After rain the potholes fill up to large puddles and their depth is not always apparent. Drive carefully and leave farm gates as you find them (open or shut).

Beyond the Matiri Carpark the farm road continues for another 2 km to the West Branch Matiri River. This stretch is rugged and crosses several streams, and should only be attempted with a four-wheel drive vehicle.

Matiri Carpark to West Branch Matiri River

Since my car is a two-wheel drive, my tramp began at the Matiri Carpark. About a half-an-hour past the carpark I came across a small herd of cattle. Some of the “ladies” were quite friendly and seemed to enjoy having their photo taken—what made me think so? Well, they followed me, obviously keen to check out their photo on my camera…

The farm road was straightforward to follow, albeit quite mucky in places. It had been raining for a few days, and there was a lot of sodden dung all over the road and the potholes filled to the rim.

Nevertheless, the scenery made up for what was underfoot. The views up the valley and of the Matiri River were pleasant to the eye. It was a hot day and I regretted not having carried some extra water. Because of the ever-present dung I was reluctant to drink any water from the streams that run across the road in a few places.

Yet, I wasn’t far away from the waters of the much cleaner West Branch Matiri River, which I reached just under an hour after leaving the carpark.

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The other week when I ventured to Lodestone, I arrived at Flora to find that half of the carpark was cordoned off. A crime scene? Highly unlikely. There, on a trailer behind a DOC ute, sat a wee backcountry hut. A couple of guys wearing hi-vis vests were looking skyward, patiently waiting for something to happen. What was it, I wondered.

Flora Carpark

Flora Carpark taped off.

While I put on my boots and readied myself for my tramp to Lodestone, I heard the crackling noises of radio calls going back and forth. Seeing the ropes draped over the hut, I quickly realised that I was about to witness an aerial hut relocation.

Sure enough, after further radio calls, one of the guys wearing a hard hat asked me to stay behind the line, as a chopper was coming in shortly. Suddenly the peace and quiet was swallowed up by the deep, beating noise of helicopter rotor blades.

Helicopter on the approach to Flora Carpark

Here she comes, straight in over Flora Saddle.

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About an hour or so from Mt Starveall, 300 metres below the summit, is Starveall Hut. It sits on a small saddle overlooking Tasman Bay to the north, and Lee Valley to the south. As far as the name is concerned, I can’t help but wonder what Starveall means. An ad hoc explanation carved into the hut’s map frame isn’t that convincing.

Starveall Hut

Starveall Hut interior

Starveall Hut and its interior.

Right on the bushline, Starveall Hut is in a perfect location, providing shelter in bad weather, and serving as a base to climb the mountain.

The closest road access is at the Hacket on Aniseed Valley Road, 29 km from Nelson. From the Hacket it’s a six-hour tramp to Starveall Hut, a climb of almost 1100 metres.

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Mt Richmond Forest Park has a very interesting geology. The Alpine Fault—New Zealand’s largest active fault—runs along the park’s southern boundary. Other major faults that branch off the Alpine Fault include the Waimea and Pelorus faults. As a result, a rich variety of rock types can be found in the park. One of them is slate.

Ada Flat with point 1538

Ada Flat with point 1538.

Tramper on Ada Flat - point 1538 (right)

Tramper on Ada Flat—point 1538 (right).

The open tops of Ada Flat provide straightforward travel from Old Man to Slaty Peak, a section of Mt Richmond’s Alpine Route. Along these tops are some impressive displays of slate, with beautiful arrays of colours and patterns.

Slate on Ada Flat

Slate on Ada Flat.

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Once upon a time there was an old man who made his home in the mountains between Tasman Bay and the Wairau Valley…

This could be the opening paragraph of a story revolving around Old Man, a mountain and backcountry hut in Mt Richmond Forest Park.

Old Man is a significant location along the Richmond Range. Routes from three directions meet on the summit of Old Man:

  • Slaty–Ada Flat (northeast)
  • Lake Chalice/Top Valley (south)
  • Mt Rintoul/Goulter Valley–Old Man Hut (west)

Old Man summit

Old Man summit (1514 m).

At 1514 metres, Old Man is one of many peaks along Richmond Range and invites for a rest to take in the views. There’s even a water point up there (see Water points—thirst quenchers on mountain tops).

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Many years ago, on my first visit to Richmond Saddle, there was a small hut up there with a very comfy armchair in it! In those days trampers referred to it as “Armchair Hut”. Yet, at some point in the last 20 years, the hut was officially named Richmond Saddle Hut. At the same time, Mt Richmond Hut was renamed Mt Fell Hut.

On subsequent visits I noticed that the hut had been refurbished and extended. The armchair has—surprise, surprise—disappeared. We can’t possibly have comfortable chairs in backcountry huts, can we? The only other hut where I remember relaxing in an armchair was Boulder Lake Hut.

Richmond Saddle Hut

Richmond Saddle Hut (1200 m) with Grass Knob (1495 m).

Richmond Saddle Hut interior

Richmond Saddle Hut interior.

As the name suggests, Richmond Saddle Hut sits on a saddle immediately west of Mt Richmond and east of Grass Knob. It’s a good base to climb Mt Richmond from, and a great shelter in bad weather. I remember having a very cosy night there, with a warm fire going and rain pelting down on the roof all night.

Richmond Saddle Hut

Richmond Saddle Hut with Mt Richmond.

Bush on Richmond Saddle

Bush on Richmond Saddle.

Piece of wreckage of the NAC Lockheed Electra ZK-AFE

Piece of wreckage of the NAC Lockheed Electra ZK-AFE.

Attached to a wall in the hut is an interesting artefact with a handwritten note beside it: “Wreckage 1942 NAC Lockheed Electra plane crash (near Johnson Peak)”. Some readers of last week’s article “Mt Richmond—a mountain and forest park” commented on the plane wreckage, which inspired me to do a bit of research on the subject.

In a document called “TIGHAR TRACKS, The Journal of the International Group for Historic Aircraft Recovery” (© TIGHAR 2004 Volume 20 #3) [PDF 8.8 MB] I found the following on page 4:

The Mount Richmond Wreck

On May 7, 1942, a Lockheed 10A operated by Union Airways of New Zealand flew into Mt Richmond, a 5,770 foot mountain in the northern part of South Island. Registered as ZK-AFE and named “Kereru,” the aircraft was built in 1937 and bore constructor’s number (c/n) 1103. The pilot, copilot and three passengers who died in the crash were New Zealand’s first airline fatalities. The airplane served its entire five-year career with the airline and almost certainly still had its original interior at the time of the crash.

People who had visited the site in the past few years reported that the wreck was still in remarkable condition, and although it had burned on impact, much of the debris was still there “looking like it crashed yesterday.” Photos of the wreckage confirmed the excellent condition of the metal so New Zealand TIGHAR member Howard Alldred—a veteran of the 2003 Niku Vp Expedition—volunteered to go to the site and see what might remain of the cabin furnishings. Howard visited the site on February 19, 2004 via chartered helicopter.

The plane had impacted the rock face of the mountain “going full chat” (as Howard put it) and the wreckage is a study in what happens when the irresistible force meets the immovable object. Although the many photos Howard took give us valuable information about how an Electra comes apart under those circumstances, no portion of the cabin survived to provide a context for our dado investigations.

Going by the photo on page 5 in the above document, the location of the wreckage is on the eastern slope of the ridge that runs from Johnson Peak to Mt Fell (between Johnson Peak and Mt Fell Hut).

Impact Mount Richmond by Philip Coote

On warbirdsite.com I found a reference to a book by Philip Coote: “Impact Mount Richmond—the Last Flight of the Kereru” (1992). Nelson’s Elma Turner Library has a copy of the book in the Nelson Heritage Collection (library use only). I haven’t yet gone along to read through it, but presumably it would shed some light on the cause of the crash, about which I cannot find any information online.

There is also some info on to the crash on page 14 of “Celebrating 100 Years of Flight, Profile 2003, Civil Aviation Authority of New Zealand” [PDF 2.5 MB].

Lockheed Electra

A Lockheed Electra, similar to the “Kereru” (source Wikipedia).

QuestionHave you spotted pieces of the Lockheed Electra’s wreckage on Johnson Peak? What do you know about the crash or the “Kereru” ZK-AFE?

I appreciate your comments.

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