great spotted kiwi

Of the seven backcountry huts on the Heaphy Track, Gouland Downs Hut is the oldest and, in my point of view, the quaintest with the most character. It’s located in the northern part of the Gouland Downs, a vast and peculiar, rolling land of red tussock, interspersed with areas of beech forests. Anyone who spends the night there has a good chance of hearing the great spotted kiwi with its distinct high-pitched, vibrating whistle.

According to Derek Shaw’s North West Nelson Tramping Guide (Nikau Press, 1991), Gouland Downs Hut was built in 1920, rebuilt in 1936 and extended in the 1960s. Since my last visit six years ago, the hut has been extensively refurbished. The interior has been done up with a new floor, bunks and mattresses, a new bench, door and a fire exit. The water tank has also been replaced as has the long drop. Luckily the open fireplace has been retained, preserving the hut’s character and, with the fire going, adding to that cosy (and sometimes smoky) backcountry hut ambiance.

Outlook from Gouland Downs Hut to Gouland Range

Gouland Downs Hut is a perfect base for anyone wanting to explore the impressive Gouland Downs, a remainder of the North West Nelson peneplain. Then there’s the awe-inspiring island of beech forest nearby, with its eerie caves, meandering streams, fascinating plants, carpets of moss and towering trees. A picturesque waterfall that flows out of a cave makes for a nice, refreshing shower on a hot summer’s day.

An exciting inhabitant of the Gouland Downs is the great spotted kiwi with its distinct shrill, warbling whistle. The few nights I spent there were alive with frequent calls by great spotted kiwi, weka and morepork.

For photos of Gouland Downs Hut, its interior and outlook to the Gouland Range, visit my photo gallery or view my slideshow.

Other new Heaphy Track hut photos include Brown Hut, Aorere Shelter and Perry Saddle Hut.