Hammock camping

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Following on from my article Mt Richmond—mountain and forest park, here’s an account of my experience on the infamous “fixed-wire” traverse.

The fixed-wire traverse is a route that gives access to the Richmond Range and Mt Richmond from Pelorus Valley. Some years ago, when I started exploring Mt Richmond Forest Park, I heard and read about the “wire”, a steel cable that assists in negotiating a steep rock face. I was told all sorts of stories about the level of difficulty, from “piece of cake” to “sheer horror”. The only way to find out was to get up there and have a look for myself.

Mt Fell, Mt Richmond

View from point 1496 aka North Peak to Mt Fell (centre, 1599 m) and Mt Richmond (right, 1756 m).

First attempt—mission failed

On my first attempt I never made it to the wire. I set out from Rocks Hut at dawn, and descended to Middy Hut by the Pelorus River, which took a couple of hours or so. Behind Middy Hut I bashed through some thick bush in a southeasterly direction until the bush opened up to mature beech forest. There was no obvious track but the odd, old marker confirmed I was headed the right way. After the initial climb of 750 metres the track levelled off a little, before becoming undulating. The weather was near perfect, a bit too warm perhaps and there was a strong, gusty southwester blowing which would have been more of an issue above the bushline.

Anyway, I thought I had reached Conical Knob when, in fact, I had only made it to point 1034. When I did get to Conical Knob I stopped for a break to assess the situation. I realised that

  • I had underestimated the route
  • I was half way, if that
  • I didn’t carry enough water to get through the day comfortably.

To complicate things, I didn’t know what time it was! At some point during the ascent, my otherwise reliable, accurately ticking Swiss watch stopped working—flat battery! This was well before cellphones became small and light enough to carry. These days when I’m out tramping I have at least three clocks on me: My watch, cellphone and even my pocket knife has a mini computer in it.

Back to my reckoning on Conical Knob: I knew it was well after midday, and I was unsure of what challenges laid ahead, like the infamous “wire”. In the end I reluctantly decided it was time for plan B: Backtrack to Middy Hut.

Second attempt—mission accomplished

In December 2006 it was time for another attempt. This time I came in from the west, spent a night at Browning Hut, then over Totara Saddle to Roebuck Hut. From old maps and brochures I established that there used to be a marked track from Roebuck Hut to Conical Knob. Like many other tracks, its maintenance ceased in 1994. My guess was that the vegetation would be similar to the Middy Hut–Conical Knob area—mature, open beech forest—so I gave it a shot.

Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob

To my surprise someone had actually cleared the bush between Roebuck Hut and the smallish clearing above the hut, giving easy access to the old track. The initial climb was straightforward. Frequent, old track markers made navigating a breeze. In fact, the old markers led all the way up to Conical Knob. Beyond point 702 the track was rather pleasant, with lots of ferns and trees other than beech.

Bush along Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob Route

Bush along Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob Route.

The final assault of Conical Knob was a very steep affair. Above 1000 metres altitude the gradient increased considerably up a spur with lots of rocky outcrops. Once there, it was a nice feeling to be back on Conical Knob; new (personally) untracked country was lying ahead.

Roebuck Hut marker on Conical Knob

Roebuck Hut marker on Conical Knob.

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One of the great things about New Zealand’s wilderness is the absence of obtrusive restaurants and hotels on mountain tops. Well-prepared trampers make sure they carry enough water for their celebratory drink upon reaching the summit. However, what if the last water supply is a long way away, and you are running low on fluids on a blisteringly hot summer’s day?

In some remote, high places, Kiwi ingenuity may come to the rescue. On my trips in Mt Richmond Forest Park, I have come across rainwater capturing and storage devices such as tins, barrels and even a rubbish bin! Despite of what you may think, generally the water in these containers is very clean. Typically the containers have some sort of a lid with a few holes and shaped in such a way to collect the rainwater.

Richmond Range water points

Water capturing bin on Richmond Range west of Old Man

A rubbish bin, converted to capture rainwater, on the Richmond Range west of Old Man. In the distance you can see Little Rintoul (1643 m) with Mt Rintoul (1731 m) behind.

Water barrel on Old Man

Water barrel on Old Man (1514 m).

Conical Knob water point

One water point that came in handy was the one I encountered on the saddle south of Conical Knob, along the Middy/Roebuck–Mt Fell route. It allowed me to break an eight-hour-plus tramp in half, and hammock camp the night on the saddle.

Water capturing tin on saddle south of Conical Knob

A 1986 New Zealand Forest Service pamphlet reads “…passing a galvanised iron water point (installed by the Nelson Tramping Club) attached to a tree just to the right of the track about a quarter of an hour from Conical Knob.”

Water capturing tin on saddle south of Conical Knob

Number eight wire does the trick and holds the tin up on a beech tree. The row of holes on the lid became apparent once I removed a pile of beech leaves.

Water capturing tin on saddle south of Conical Knob

Open it, and voilà!

Sign above water capturing tin on saddle south of Conical Knob

Sign with some good advice above the water point.

Hammock camp on saddle (1120 m) south of Conical Knob

My hammock camp at 1120 m, on the saddle south of Conical Knob.

Are there any other water points?

Water pointWater points deserve to be appropriately marked on park maps—what do you reckon? I wonder how many of them there are. Have you ever come across any “mountain top thirst quenchers” in New Zealand’s wilderness?

When a friend of mine, a frequent tramper and hunter, raved on about his new hammock, I didn’t know what to think. My idea of a hammock—a cloth stretched on a rope between a couple of trees—didn’t suggest a comfortable night’s sleep at all. Little did I know…

What was I missing? To find out I did some research on the web and discovered a whole new world: hammock camping. After reading countless reviews and forums I took the plunge and ordered a “Hyperlight Backpacker A-Sym” from Hennessy Hammocks.

The hammock was promptly delivered. The written set up instructions could have done with more illustrations but the online set up videos on Hennessy Hammocks made up for it and were worthwhile watching.

Before heading out into the wilderness I decided on a practice run. It went very well. The hammock was set up in no time and ready for my first lie down. Getting into the hammock is very easy: Stick your head and shoulders through the Velcro® opening, sit down in the hammock, pull your legs up, lie back and the entrance shuts automatically; lie down at an angle slightly diagonal to the support rope and relax. My very first impression was: “Wow, this is so comfortable!” I could have easily dosed off there and then!

Hammock camping at Koura Beach on Heaphy Track

Hammock camping at Koura Beach on Heaphy Track

The time had come for a field trial. Just in case things wouldn’t work out, I chose the Heaphy Track, an easy tramping track with backcountry huts as a backup. As luck would have it, it started to rain as I was looking for a suitable hammock site on my first night out. One of the advantages of hammock camping is that level ground is not necessary. It so happened that my first “real” hammock site was on a slope. The set up was quick—it pays to be familiar with the lashing of the main support rope to the webbing straps—and after a few minor height adjustments I was set for the night. I wrapped my backpack in my poncho and stowed it underneath the hammock.

Tip

Before you buy a hammock, I recommend you search the web for reviews and tips from other hammock users. The following sites may be useful:

Disclaimer

I am not affiliated in any way with Hennessy Hammocks. The opinion expressed in this article is purely my own and therefore personal.

During the night the rain was pelting down and I remained very comfortable, snugly and warm. Towards the morning the rain eased. As I woke to the popping sound of residual rain drops falling onto the fly, I was still dry and so comfortable that I went back to sleep and even slept in! What some hammock users said on forums, that the hammock is so comfortable you don’t want to get out of it, did (and still does) definitely apply in my case.

And here’s the funny bit: After three comfy nights in my hammock I decided to spend a night at Saxon Hut, a nice and tidy backcountry hut with the standard, plastic-covered foam mattresses. Strangely enough I couldn’t get comfortable and ended up having quite a broken sleep. I so wished I was back in my hammock! Needless to say where I slept the following night…