mt richmond

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About an hour or so from Mt Starveall, 300 metres below the summit, is Starveall Hut. It sits on a small saddle overlooking Tasman Bay to the north, and Lee Valley to the south. As far as the name is concerned, I can’t help but wonder what Starveall means. An ad hoc explanation carved into the hut’s map frame isn’t that convincing.

Starveall Hut

Starveall Hut interior

Starveall Hut and its interior.

Right on the bushline, Starveall Hut is in a perfect location, providing shelter in bad weather, and serving as a base to climb the mountain.

The closest road access is at the Hacket on Aniseed Valley Road, 29 km from Nelson. From the Hacket it’s a six-hour tramp to Starveall Hut, a climb of almost 1100 metres.

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At 1528 metres, 21 kilometres south of Nelson, Mt Starveall is a superb viewpoint. The Marlborough Sounds, Richmond Range, Inland Kaikouras, Red Hills Ridge, Nelson’s Western Ranges as well as Tasman Bay are all on Mt Starveall’s viewing menu.

Mt Starveall

A cloud drifts across the Lowther Saddle between the Hacket Peaks and Mt Starveall (right, 1528 m). Dominating in the distance are Little Rintoul (left, 1643 m) and Mt Rintoul (1731 m).

Hacket Peaks

Looking back to the Hacket Peaks (1438 m and 1437 m) and Mt Gale (1425 m).

On Mt Starveall

Clouds hover above Mt Starveall summit (1528 m).

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Mt Richmond Forest Park has a very interesting geology. The Alpine Fault—New Zealand’s largest active fault—runs along the park’s southern boundary. Other major faults that branch off the Alpine Fault include the Waimea and Pelorus faults. As a result, a rich variety of rock types can be found in the park. One of them is slate.

Ada Flat with point 1538

Ada Flat with point 1538.

Tramper on Ada Flat - point 1538 (right)

Tramper on Ada Flat—point 1538 (right).

The open tops of Ada Flat provide straightforward travel from Old Man to Slaty Peak, a section of Mt Richmond’s Alpine Route. Along these tops are some impressive displays of slate, with beautiful arrays of colours and patterns.

Slate on Ada Flat

Slate on Ada Flat.

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Following on from my article Mt Richmond—mountain and forest park, here’s an account of my experience on the infamous “fixed-wire” traverse.

The fixed-wire traverse is a route that gives access to the Richmond Range and Mt Richmond from Pelorus Valley. Some years ago, when I started exploring Mt Richmond Forest Park, I heard and read about the “wire”, a steel cable that assists in negotiating a steep rock face. I was told all sorts of stories about the level of difficulty, from “piece of cake” to “sheer horror”. The only way to find out was to get up there and have a look for myself.

Mt Fell, Mt Richmond

View from point 1496 aka North Peak to Mt Fell (centre, 1599 m) and Mt Richmond (right, 1756 m).

First attempt—mission failed

On my first attempt I never made it to the wire. I set out from Rocks Hut at dawn, and descended to Middy Hut by the Pelorus River, which took a couple of hours or so. Behind Middy Hut I bashed through some thick bush in a southeasterly direction until the bush opened up to mature beech forest. There was no obvious track but the odd, old marker confirmed I was headed the right way. After the initial climb of 750 metres the track levelled off a little, before becoming undulating. The weather was near perfect, a bit too warm perhaps and there was a strong, gusty southwester blowing which would have been more of an issue above the bushline.

Anyway, I thought I had reached Conical Knob when, in fact, I had only made it to point 1034. When I did get to Conical Knob I stopped for a break to assess the situation. I realised that

  • I had underestimated the route
  • I was half way, if that
  • I didn’t carry enough water to get through the day comfortably.

To complicate things, I didn’t know what time it was! At some point during the ascent, my otherwise reliable, accurately ticking Swiss watch stopped working—flat battery! This was well before cellphones became small and light enough to carry. These days when I’m out tramping I have at least three clocks on me: My watch, cellphone and even my pocket knife has a mini computer in it.

Back to my reckoning on Conical Knob: I knew it was well after midday, and I was unsure of what challenges laid ahead, like the infamous “wire”. In the end I reluctantly decided it was time for plan B: Backtrack to Middy Hut.

Second attempt—mission accomplished

In December 2006 it was time for another attempt. This time I came in from the west, spent a night at Browning Hut, then over Totara Saddle to Roebuck Hut. From old maps and brochures I established that there used to be a marked track from Roebuck Hut to Conical Knob. Like many other tracks, its maintenance ceased in 1994. My guess was that the vegetation would be similar to the Middy Hut–Conical Knob area—mature, open beech forest—so I gave it a shot.

Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob

To my surprise someone had actually cleared the bush between Roebuck Hut and the smallish clearing above the hut, giving easy access to the old track. The initial climb was straightforward. Frequent, old track markers made navigating a breeze. In fact, the old markers led all the way up to Conical Knob. Beyond point 702 the track was rather pleasant, with lots of ferns and trees other than beech.

Bush along Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob Route

Bush along Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob Route.

The final assault of Conical Knob was a very steep affair. Above 1000 metres altitude the gradient increased considerably up a spur with lots of rocky outcrops. Once there, it was a nice feeling to be back on Conical Knob; new (personally) untracked country was lying ahead.

Roebuck Hut marker on Conical Knob

Roebuck Hut marker on Conical Knob.

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Once upon a time there was an old man who made his home in the mountains between Tasman Bay and the Wairau Valley…

This could be the opening paragraph of a story revolving around Old Man, a mountain and backcountry hut in Mt Richmond Forest Park.

Old Man is a significant location along the Richmond Range. Routes from three directions meet on the summit of Old Man:

  • Slaty–Ada Flat (northeast)
  • Lake Chalice/Top Valley (south)
  • Mt Rintoul/Goulter Valley–Old Man Hut (west)

Old Man summit

Old Man summit (1514 m).

At 1514 metres, Old Man is one of many peaks along Richmond Range and invites for a rest to take in the views. There’s even a water point up there (see Water points—thirst quenchers on mountain tops).

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Many years ago, on my first visit to Richmond Saddle, there was a small hut up there with a very comfy armchair in it! In those days trampers referred to it as “Armchair Hut”. Yet, at some point in the last 20 years, the hut was officially named Richmond Saddle Hut. At the same time, Mt Richmond Hut was renamed Mt Fell Hut.

On subsequent visits I noticed that the hut had been refurbished and extended. The armchair has—surprise, surprise—disappeared. We can’t possibly have comfortable chairs in backcountry huts, can we? The only other hut where I remember relaxing in an armchair was Boulder Lake Hut.

Richmond Saddle Hut

Richmond Saddle Hut (1200 m) with Grass Knob (1495 m).

Richmond Saddle Hut interior

Richmond Saddle Hut interior.

As the name suggests, Richmond Saddle Hut sits on a saddle immediately west of Mt Richmond and east of Grass Knob. It’s a good base to climb Mt Richmond from, and a great shelter in bad weather. I remember having a very cosy night there, with a warm fire going and rain pelting down on the roof all night.

Richmond Saddle Hut

Richmond Saddle Hut with Mt Richmond.

Bush on Richmond Saddle

Bush on Richmond Saddle.

Piece of wreckage of the NAC Lockheed Electra ZK-AFE

Piece of wreckage of the NAC Lockheed Electra ZK-AFE.

Attached to a wall in the hut is an interesting artefact with a handwritten note beside it: “Wreckage 1942 NAC Lockheed Electra plane crash (near Johnson Peak)”. Some readers of last week’s article “Mt Richmond—a mountain and forest park” commented on the plane wreckage, which inspired me to do a bit of research on the subject.

In a document called “TIGHAR TRACKS, The Journal of the International Group for Historic Aircraft Recovery” (© TIGHAR 2004 Volume 20 #3) [PDF 8.8 MB] I found the following on page 4:

The Mount Richmond Wreck

On May 7, 1942, a Lockheed 10A operated by Union Airways of New Zealand flew into Mt Richmond, a 5,770 foot mountain in the northern part of South Island. Registered as ZK-AFE and named “Kereru,” the aircraft was built in 1937 and bore constructor’s number (c/n) 1103. The pilot, copilot and three passengers who died in the crash were New Zealand’s first airline fatalities. The airplane served its entire five-year career with the airline and almost certainly still had its original interior at the time of the crash.

People who had visited the site in the past few years reported that the wreck was still in remarkable condition, and although it had burned on impact, much of the debris was still there “looking like it crashed yesterday.” Photos of the wreckage confirmed the excellent condition of the metal so New Zealand TIGHAR member Howard Alldred—a veteran of the 2003 Niku Vp Expedition—volunteered to go to the site and see what might remain of the cabin furnishings. Howard visited the site on February 19, 2004 via chartered helicopter.

The plane had impacted the rock face of the mountain “going full chat” (as Howard put it) and the wreckage is a study in what happens when the irresistible force meets the immovable object. Although the many photos Howard took give us valuable information about how an Electra comes apart under those circumstances, no portion of the cabin survived to provide a context for our dado investigations.

Going by the photo on page 5 in the above document, the location of the wreckage is on the eastern slope of the ridge that runs from Johnson Peak to Mt Fell (between Johnson Peak and Mt Fell Hut).

Impact Mount Richmond by Philip Coote

On warbirdsite.com I found a reference to a book by Philip Coote: “Impact Mount Richmond—the Last Flight of the Kereru” (1992). Nelson’s Elma Turner Library has a copy of the book in the Nelson Heritage Collection (library use only). I haven’t yet gone along to read through it, but presumably it would shed some light on the cause of the crash, about which I cannot find any information online.

There is also some info on to the crash on page 14 of “Celebrating 100 Years of Flight, Profile 2003, Civil Aviation Authority of New Zealand” [PDF 2.5 MB].

Lockheed Electra

A Lockheed Electra, similar to the “Kereru” (source Wikipedia).

QuestionHave you spotted pieces of the Lockheed Electra’s wreckage on Johnson Peak? What do you know about the crash or the “Kereru” ZK-AFE?

I appreciate your comments.

Mt Richmond is a prominent peak on the Richmond Range in Mt Richmond Forest Park (that should be plenty of “Richmonds” in one sentence). At 1756 m, Mt Richmond is 35 m short of Red Hill, the park’s highest mountain. Nevertheless, there are commanding views from the summit, a great reward for anyone who’s endured the strenuous ascent.

Mt Richmond

Johnson Peak (left), Mt Richmond (right).

Mt Richmond

Mt Richmond, north face, 1756 m.

There are three tracks/routes that lead to Mt Richmond, all requiring a good level of fitness.

Top Valley

The most direct route starts in Top Valley, off Wairau Valley’s Northbank Road. Unless the forestry roads are closed for logging, you can drive to the beginning of the track at 520 m. The tramping track climbs steadily for about four hours along a ridge through beech forest to Richmond Saddle (1200 m) where Mt Richmond Hut is located.

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