panoramas

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Thousand Acre Plateau—and still counting…

5 April 2010 in Kahurangi, New Zealand wilderness, Tramping/hiking trips | 5 comments

Following on from my previous article Matiri Valley—gateway to spectacular landscapes, I’m about to tell you about my trip to the Thousand Acre Plateau.

Lake Matiri Hut to plateau rim

After a comfortable and peaceful night at Lake Matiri Hut, I was ready to take on the 800-metre climb to the plateau. About 15 minutes north of the hut is Bay Creek which, apparently, can rise quickly after heavy rain. When I forded it, it was barely knee-deep.

Right across Bay Creek is a track junction with old, wooden signposts from the Forest Service days. “McConchies Hut” points to the right, up Matiri Valley, and “Poor Pete’s Hut” to the left, where I was headed.

Bay Creek

Bay Creek

The climb towards the plateau starts there and then—steep and relentless. The well marked tramping track climbs steadily through beech forest, over zillions of tree roots (“slippery when wet”). After 45 minutes or so, at about 700 metres, I was in for the first reward: A small clearing on the edge of a cliff that makes for a tremendous viewpoint over picturesque Lake Matiri and serpentine Matiri River, 350 metres below.

Lake Matiri

Looking down to Lake Matiri, 350 metres below

Lake Matiri

Lake Matiri

Matiri River

Serpentine Matiri River, north of Lake Matiri

Soon after the viewpoint, at 800 metres, the track levels off considerably and—with a few ups and downs—meanders through bush that’s dominated by grass trees (Dracophyllum). Then the gradient picks up again, and at about 900 metres the final “assault” to the plateau begins. The track zigzags steeply through (and over) limestone blocks, a sure sign of getting within reach of the plateau’s rim.

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Mt Starveall—views galore!

20 September 2009 in Mt Richmond, New Zealand wilderness, Photography | 6 comments

At 1528 metres, 21 kilometres south of Nelson, Mt Starveall is a superb viewpoint. The Marlborough Sounds, Richmond Range, Inland Kaikouras, Red Hills Ridge, Nelson’s Western Ranges as well as Tasman Bay are all on Mt Starveall’s viewing menu.

Mt Starveall

A cloud drifts across the Lowther Saddle between the Hacket Peaks and Mt Starveall (right, 1528 m). Dominating in the distance are Little Rintoul (left, 1643 m) and Mt Rintoul (1731 m).

Hacket Peaks

Looking back to the Hacket Peaks (1438 m and 1437 m) and Mt Gale (1425 m).

On Mt Starveall

Clouds hover above Mt Starveall summit (1528 m).

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Nelson’s western vista—what are we looking at?

12 July 2009 in Photography | 9 comments

It all started with a phone call from my friend Ian last week. From his place he gets a clear view of Nelson’s western ranges, and he remarked on how stunning the snow-clad mountains looked. Since I live near Tahunanui Beach, I wondered whether I should go down with my camera and have a look. A short time later Ian and I were at Tahunanui’s back beach with my camera in tow.

Indeed, the mountains looked rather beautiful, calling for a panorama shot. Unfortunately I left my tripod at home, and the best I could do was a handheld photo shoot, trying to keep the camera level with the horizon and estimating the scene overlap. 50 seconds and 16 shutter releases later, I had digitalised the view.

Combining the photos to a panorama was next (after a nice lunch at the Beach Café). There are a lot of photo stitching programmes out there, among them Tobias Hüllmandel’s PanoramaStudio which I find excellent and fast.

What are we looking at?

Over the years I’ve managed to climb most prominent peaks that surround Nelson, and was able to name them and point them out to Ian.

Since the result of my handheld photo shoot is viewable, I thought it would be nice to produce an online reference, and here it is:

Nelson's western vista

The mountain panorama’s viewing angle stretches roughly over 100°, from the Lookout Range in Kahurangi National Park all the way to Abel Tasman National Park, with Tasman Bay in the foreground.

You can view/download the panorama as a small or (very) large file, free for private, non-commercial use:

(To download the panorama right-click on the link and select Save Link As [in Firefox] or Save Target As [in Explorer].)

Mountain cabbage trees on Perry Saddle

5 June 2008 in Kahurangi, New Zealand wilderness, Tramping/hiking trips | No comments

This article—the seventh and last in my Heaphy photo series—covers the eastern end of the Heaphy Track which includes the track’s highest elevation, Flanagans Corner at 910 m.

Flanagans Corner panorama

Flanagans Corner panorama

On a clear day panoramic views of the upper Aorere Valley and Gouland Range can be enjoyed from the nearby lookout. The spectacular, jagged Douglas Range with the Dragons Teeth and Anatoki Peak can also be seen.

Mountain cabbage trees — cordyline indivisa

Another striking feature between Perry Saddle and Aorere Shelter are the attractive broad-leaved cabbage trees or mountain cabbage trees (tōī—cordyline indivisa). Beautifully broad, sword-shaped leaves clearly distinguish this species from other cabbage trees.

No matter which way you travel, Aorere Shelter with its nice setting and outlook invites for a break and breather. While I had a rest there, a fellow tramper from Aussie unpacked his cooker and billies and prepared a wholesome three-course meal!

Quick links

Perry Saddle and Perry Saddle Hut are a welcome sight for those who started out at Brown River. The easy but long and steady ascent from Brown Hut to Perry Saddle takes approximately five hours.

If the weather is favourable and you haven’t run out of steam by the time you get to Perry Saddle, I highly recommend a side trip to Mt Perry. A good time to do this trip is also at the crack of dawn after breakfast (or before?!).

Gouland Downs—plus an encounter with a New Zealand falcon, kārearea

11 May 2008 in Kahurangi, New Zealand wilderness, Tramping/hiking trips | No comments

New Zealand falcon, Falco novaseelandiae, kārearea

The Gouland Downs are one of the Heaphy Track’s highlights. The rolling tussock country, interspersed with patches of beech forest, is in stark contrast to the lush rainforest alongside the Heaphy River and the nikau palms on the West Coast.

Nevertheless, even here vegetation changes can be quite dramatic. One minute the track crosses a sea of red tussock, the next it enters a beech forest—it’s like stepping from one ‘room’ into another.

This is the case at Gouland Downs Hut where the track suddenly leaves the tussock behind and meanders through a very attractive patch of mature beech forest. Karst features with limestone arches, caves, streams and a pretty waterfall make for interesting exploration.

Gouland Downs panorama

Gouland Downs panorama

Quick links

When it comes to birdlife, the Gouland Downs are home to many species (see inset below). One morning, while I was sitting on a highpoint admiring the spectacular views, I heard a flapping noise over my head. It turned out I had chosen the same highpoint as a New Zealand falcon—kārearea—which had its perch up high on a tree behind me.

Birds I spotted or heard at Gouland Downs

bellbird (korimako), brown creeper (pipipi), falcon (kārearea), fantail (piwakawaka), great spotted kiwi (roa), grey warbler (riroriro), morepork (ruru), pipit (pihoihoi), rifleman (tītitipounamu), robin (toutouwai), silvereye (tauhou), tomtit (ngirungiru),
tui, welcome swallow, weka.

The falcon didn’t seem to mind my presence and carried on looking out for prey. I witnessed several hunting attempts. It would take off, gain altitude quickly and in a roundabout sort of a way approach a flock of smaller passerine birds in flight below. Once it had its eyes set on its prey it ‘dive-bombed’ on it. After unsuccessful assaults it came straight back to its perch. During my hour-long observation, the falcon stayed away for some time once, when, presumably, it was successful in getting a feed.

I was quite taken being able to watch such a beautiful bird from up close in an equally striking environment.

Mt Perry—a rewarding Heaphy Track side trip

3 May 2008 in Kahurangi, New Zealand wilderness, Tramping/hiking trips | No comments

Mt Perry, near Perry Saddle on the Heaphy Track, is a fantastic viewpoint not to be missed! On a clear day the 360-degree panorama extends as far as the Farewell Spit and the West Coast. The inland views include the Wakamarama Range, Slate Range, Gouland Downs, Mackay Downs and the prominent Douglas Range deep in Kahurangi National Park.

Western view from Mt Perry to Gouland Downs

Western view from Mt Perry to Gouland Downs

As I set out, the weather was very favourable, but by midday the clouds started rolling in. Nonetheless there was enough time to take a few nice photos of big and small things on show on Mt Perry—view them as slideshow or in my photo gallery.

Quick links

If you are thinking of climbing Mt Perry, follow DOC’s advice and route description pinned up on the Perry Saddle Hut notice board. As with most mountainous areas, the weather on Mt Perry can literally change from one minute to the next and, even though the route is well-marked with cairns, low clouds can significantly reduce visibility and make route finding difficult.

Have you been to Mt Perry? Or do you know how Mt Perry got its name? If yes, please leave a comment.

Baton Saddle

22 January 2008 in Kahurangi, New Zealand wilderness, Tramping/hiking trips | 1 comment

Baton Saddle, located on Arthur Range about 10 km west southwest of Mt Arthur, offers tremendous views deep into Kahurangi National Park.

Baton Saddle can be reached from Baton Valley Road along Baton River or by climbing out of the Leslie Valley. Both approaches require a climb of nearly 1100 m to the saddle at 1360 m.

Southeastern view from Baton Saddle

Southeastern view from Baton Saddle

Baton Track

Photos

The Baton Track follows a historic goldminers’ pack track along the Baton River to Flanagans Hut. In many places the track is rather rugged and there are some stretches where it has been washed out by the river. There are several river crossings along the way, hence this trip should only be considered when river levels are low. In parts the track sidles steeply above the river and fixed steel cables offer assistance. The track is well marked with orange markers.

Flanagans Hut

After four to five hours walk from Baton Valley Road, Flanagans Hut is a welcome sight. It is located at the foot of a pretty basin from where Baton Saddle can be glimpsed for the first time. Flanagans Hut (eight bunks) was built in 1986 by the Motueka Tramping Club.

It can take up to two hours to follow the poled route from the hut to Baton Saddle. The last section below the saddle is steep and there is an abundance of tall and prickly speargrass. On a clear day the panorama from Baton Saddle is breathtaking. To the northwest the views reach as far as Kendall Ridge, Herbert Range, Garibaldi Ridge, Morgan Range, Grange Ridge, Marshall Range, Kakapo Spur, Peel Range, Lockett Range and down to the Karamea Syncline and the Leslie Valley.

Baton Saddle panorama

Baton Saddle panorama

Wilkinson Track

The Wilkinson Track offers a route from Baton Saddle to the Leslie River where it connects with the Leslie–Karamea Track.

The Wilkinson Track is by no means for the fainthearted. Some parts are steep and rough and there are sections, especially in the lower part, where the track is quite overgrown. Patches of tall and dense ongaonga (urtica ferox), the infamous stinging tree nettle, may also be encountered. It is, perhaps, not surprising that some discerning tramper altered the signpost in Leslie Valley to read “Wilkinson Track Horror”.