scenic

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Following on from my previous article Matiri Valley—gateway to spectacular landscapes, I’m about to tell you about my trip to the Thousand Acre Plateau.

Lake Matiri Hut to plateau rim

After a comfortable and peaceful night at Lake Matiri Hut, I was ready to take on the 800-metre climb to the plateau. About 15 minutes north of the hut is Bay Creek which, apparently, can rise quickly after heavy rain. When I forded it, it was barely knee-deep.

Right across Bay Creek is a track junction with old, wooden signposts from the Forest Service days. “McConchies Hut” points to the right, up Matiri Valley, and “Poor Pete’s Hut” to the left, where I was headed.

Bay Creek

Bay Creek

The climb towards the plateau starts there and then—steep and relentless. The well marked tramping track climbs steadily through beech forest, over zillions of tree roots (“slippery when wet”). After 45 minutes or so, at about 700 metres, I was in for the first reward: A small clearing on the edge of a cliff that makes for a tremendous viewpoint over picturesque Lake Matiri and serpentine Matiri River, 350 metres below.

Lake Matiri

Looking down to Lake Matiri, 350 metres below

Lake Matiri

Lake Matiri

Matiri River

Serpentine Matiri River, north of Lake Matiri

Soon after the viewpoint, at 800 metres, the track levels off considerably and—with a few ups and downs—meanders through bush that’s dominated by grass trees (Dracophyllum). Then the gradient picks up again, and at about 900 metres the final “assault” to the plateau begins. The track zigzags steeply through (and over) limestone blocks, a sure sign of getting within reach of the plateau’s rim.

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At 1528 metres, 21 kilometres south of Nelson, Mt Starveall is a superb viewpoint. The Marlborough Sounds, Richmond Range, Inland Kaikouras, Red Hills Ridge, Nelson’s Western Ranges as well as Tasman Bay are all on Mt Starveall’s viewing menu.

Mt Starveall

A cloud drifts across the Lowther Saddle between the Hacket Peaks and Mt Starveall (right, 1528 m). Dominating in the distance are Little Rintoul (left, 1643 m) and Mt Rintoul (1731 m).

Hacket Peaks

Looking back to the Hacket Peaks (1438 m and 1437 m) and Mt Gale (1425 m).

On Mt Starveall

Clouds hover above Mt Starveall summit (1528 m).

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Following on from my article Mt Richmond—mountain and forest park, here’s an account of my experience on the infamous “fixed-wire” traverse.

The fixed-wire traverse is a route that gives access to the Richmond Range and Mt Richmond from Pelorus Valley. Some years ago, when I started exploring Mt Richmond Forest Park, I heard and read about the “wire”, a steel cable that assists in negotiating a steep rock face. I was told all sorts of stories about the level of difficulty, from “piece of cake” to “sheer horror”. The only way to find out was to get up there and have a look for myself.

Mt Fell, Mt Richmond

View from point 1496 aka North Peak to Mt Fell (centre, 1599 m) and Mt Richmond (right, 1756 m).

First attempt—mission failed

On my first attempt I never made it to the wire. I set out from Rocks Hut at dawn, and descended to Middy Hut by the Pelorus River, which took a couple of hours or so. Behind Middy Hut I bashed through some thick bush in a southeasterly direction until the bush opened up to mature beech forest. There was no obvious track but the odd, old marker confirmed I was headed the right way. After the initial climb of 750 metres the track levelled off a little, before becoming undulating. The weather was near perfect, a bit too warm perhaps and there was a strong, gusty southwester blowing which would have been more of an issue above the bushline.

Anyway, I thought I had reached Conical Knob when, in fact, I had only made it to point 1034. When I did get to Conical Knob I stopped for a break to assess the situation. I realised that

  • I had underestimated the route
  • I was half way, if that
  • I didn’t carry enough water to get through the day comfortably.

To complicate things, I didn’t know what time it was! At some point during the ascent, my otherwise reliable, accurately ticking Swiss watch stopped working—flat battery! This was well before cellphones became small and light enough to carry. These days when I’m out tramping I have at least three clocks on me: My watch, cellphone and even my pocket knife has a mini computer in it.

Back to my reckoning on Conical Knob: I knew it was well after midday, and I was unsure of what challenges laid ahead, like the infamous “wire”. In the end I reluctantly decided it was time for plan B: Backtrack to Middy Hut.

Second attempt—mission accomplished

In December 2006 it was time for another attempt. This time I came in from the west, spent a night at Browning Hut, then over Totara Saddle to Roebuck Hut. From old maps and brochures I established that there used to be a marked track from Roebuck Hut to Conical Knob. Like many other tracks, its maintenance ceased in 1994. My guess was that the vegetation would be similar to the Middy Hut–Conical Knob area—mature, open beech forest—so I gave it a shot.

Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob

To my surprise someone had actually cleared the bush between Roebuck Hut and the smallish clearing above the hut, giving easy access to the old track. The initial climb was straightforward. Frequent, old track markers made navigating a breeze. In fact, the old markers led all the way up to Conical Knob. Beyond point 702 the track was rather pleasant, with lots of ferns and trees other than beech.

Bush along Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob Route

Bush along Roebuck Hut–Conical Knob Route.

The final assault of Conical Knob was a very steep affair. Above 1000 metres altitude the gradient increased considerably up a spur with lots of rocky outcrops. Once there, it was a nice feeling to be back on Conical Knob; new (personally) untracked country was lying ahead.

Roebuck Hut marker on Conical Knob

Roebuck Hut marker on Conical Knob.

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Once upon a time there was an old man who made his home in the mountains between Tasman Bay and the Wairau Valley…

This could be the opening paragraph of a story revolving around Old Man, a mountain and backcountry hut in Mt Richmond Forest Park.

Old Man is a significant location along the Richmond Range. Routes from three directions meet on the summit of Old Man:

  • Slaty–Ada Flat (northeast)
  • Lake Chalice/Top Valley (south)
  • Mt Rintoul/Goulter Valley–Old Man Hut (west)

Old Man summit

Old Man summit (1514 m).

At 1514 metres, Old Man is one of many peaks along Richmond Range and invites for a rest to take in the views. There’s even a water point up there (see Water points—thirst quenchers on mountain tops).

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Mt Richmond is a prominent peak on the Richmond Range in Mt Richmond Forest Park (that should be plenty of “Richmonds” in one sentence). At 1756 m, Mt Richmond is 35 m short of Red Hill, the park’s highest mountain. Nevertheless, there are commanding views from the summit, a great reward for anyone who’s endured the strenuous ascent.

Mt Richmond

Johnson Peak (left), Mt Richmond (right).

Mt Richmond

Mt Richmond, north face, 1756 m.

There are three tracks/routes that lead to Mt Richmond, all requiring a good level of fitness.

Top Valley

The most direct route starts in Top Valley, off Wairau Valley’s Northbank Road. Unless the forestry roads are closed for logging, you can drive to the beginning of the track at 520 m. The tramping track climbs steadily for about four hours along a ridge through beech forest to Richmond Saddle (1200 m) where Mt Richmond Hut is located.

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It all started with a phone call from my friend Ian last week. From his place he gets a clear view of Nelson’s western ranges, and he remarked on how stunning the snow-clad mountains looked. Since I live near Tahunanui Beach, I wondered whether I should go down with my camera and have a look. A short time later Ian and I were at Tahunanui’s back beach with my camera in tow.

Indeed, the mountains looked rather beautiful, calling for a panorama shot. Unfortunately I left my tripod at home, and the best I could do was a handheld photo shoot, trying to keep the camera level with the horizon and estimating the scene overlap. 50 seconds and 16 shutter releases later, I had digitalised the view.

Combining the photos to a panorama was next (after a nice lunch at the Beach Café). There are a lot of photo stitching programmes out there, among them Tobias Hüllmandel’s PanoramaStudio which I find excellent and fast.

What are we looking at?

Over the years I’ve managed to climb most prominent peaks that surround Nelson, and was able to name them and point them out to Ian.

Since the result of my handheld photo shoot is viewable, I thought it would be nice to produce an online reference, and here it is:

Nelson's western vista

The mountain panorama’s viewing angle stretches roughly over 100°, from the Lookout Range in Kahurangi National Park all the way to Abel Tasman National Park, with Tasman Bay in the foreground.

You can view/download the panorama as a small or (very) large file, free for private, non-commercial use:

(To download the panorama right-click on the link and select Save Link As [in Firefox] or Save Target As [in Explorer].)

As announced earlier, here is an account of my latest tramping trip to the Mt Owen massif:

Map with Mt Owen massif trip overview

Overview of my four-day trip to the Mt Owen massif

Day 1: Courthouse Flat–Granity Pass

The starting point of my trip was Courthouse Flat at the end of the Wangapeka River Road. There are two options to gain the first 500 metres in altitude: Via the Ridge Track or the Blue Creek Track. The latter was my choice, meandering along an easy walking track next to Blue Creek for the first half hour or so. A few hundred metres before the Blue Creek Resurgence, the track branches off and becomes a tramping track. It follows Blue Creek for a bit before relentlessly and steadily climbing out of the valley. After some heavy rain the day before, a few showers kept on sweeping through from the west, making the track slippery and muddy in parts.

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